In the first half of the 16th century, German dress varied widely from the costume worn in the other parts of Europe. Skirts were cut separately from bodices, though often sewn together, and the open-fronted gown laced over a kirtle with a wide band of rich fabric, often jeweled and embroidered, across the bust. Partlets ( called in German gollers or collars) were worn with the low-cut bodice to cover the neck and shoulders and were made in a variety of styles. The most popular goller was a round shoulder-capelet, frequently of black velvet lined in silk or fur, with a standing neck band; this goller would remain in use in some parts of Germany into the 17th century and became part of national dress in some areas.
Dress in Holland, Belgium and Flanders, now part of the Empire, retained a high, belted waistline longest. Italian gowns were fitted to the waits, with full skirts bellow.
The French gown of the first part of the century was loosely fitted to the body and flared from the hips, with a train. The neckline was square and might reveal the kirtle and chemise beneath. Cuffed sleeves were wide at the wrist and grew wider, displaying a decorated under sleeve attached to the kirtle. The gown fastened in the front early, sometimes lacing over the kirtle or a stomacher, and the skirt might be slit in front or train tucked up in back to display the skirt of the kirtle. As a fitted style emerged under Spanish influence, the gown was made as a separate bodice and skirt; this bodice usually fastened at the side or the side-back with hooks and eyes or lacing. From the 1530's, French and English fashions featured an open, square-necked gown with long sleeves fitted smoothly over a tight corset or a pair of bodies and a farthingale. With the smooth, conical line of the skirt, the front of the kirtle or petticoat was displayed, and a decorated panel called a fore part, heavily embroidered and sometimes jewelled, was pinned to the petticoat or directly to the farthingale.
In France, England, and Low Countries, black hoods with veils at the back were worn over linen under caps that allowed the front hair to show. These hoods became more complex and structured over time.
German women adopted hats like fashionable men's barrettes early in the century; these were worn over caps or cauls made of netted cord over a silk lining.
In warmer climates including Italy and Spain, hair was ore often worn uncovered, braided or twisted with ribbons and pinned up, or confined in a net. A Spanish style of the later 15th century was still worn in this period: the hair was puffed over the ears before being drawn back at chin level into a braid or wrapped twist at the nape.
Women of wealth wore gold chains and other precious jewellery ; collar like necklaces called carcanets and jewelled pins. Large brooches were worn to pin over partlets to the dress beneath. Gloves of soft leather had short, sometimes slashed,cuffs and were perfumed.
Dress in Holland, Belgium and Flanders, now part of the Empire, retained a high, belted waistline longest. Italian gowns were fitted to the waits, with full skirts bellow.
The French gown of the first part of the century was loosely fitted to the body and flared from the hips, with a train. The neckline was square and might reveal the kirtle and chemise beneath. Cuffed sleeves were wide at the wrist and grew wider, displaying a decorated under sleeve attached to the kirtle. The gown fastened in the front early, sometimes lacing over the kirtle or a stomacher, and the skirt might be slit in front or train tucked up in back to display the skirt of the kirtle. As a fitted style emerged under Spanish influence, the gown was made as a separate bodice and skirt; this bodice usually fastened at the side or the side-back with hooks and eyes or lacing. From the 1530's, French and English fashions featured an open, square-necked gown with long sleeves fitted smoothly over a tight corset or a pair of bodies and a farthingale. With the smooth, conical line of the skirt, the front of the kirtle or petticoat was displayed, and a decorated panel called a fore part, heavily embroidered and sometimes jewelled, was pinned to the petticoat or directly to the farthingale.
In France, England, and Low Countries, black hoods with veils at the back were worn over linen under caps that allowed the front hair to show. These hoods became more complex and structured over time.
German women adopted hats like fashionable men's barrettes early in the century; these were worn over caps or cauls made of netted cord over a silk lining.
In warmer climates including Italy and Spain, hair was ore often worn uncovered, braided or twisted with ribbons and pinned up, or confined in a net. A Spanish style of the later 15th century was still worn in this period: the hair was puffed over the ears before being drawn back at chin level into a braid or wrapped twist at the nape.
Women of wealth wore gold chains and other precious jewellery ; collar like necklaces called carcanets and jewelled pins. Large brooches were worn to pin over partlets to the dress beneath. Gloves of soft leather had short, sometimes slashed,cuffs and were perfumed.